Restaurant Review Section | Mrs. Lovett’s Pie Shop on Fleet Street

While Traveling through London with my wife and niece I thought it finally time to see what all the rave was about.

On the left side of Bell Yard, going down from Carey Street, you will find a two-story pie shop standing quaintly on Fleet Street just across from J. Williams and Hodges.

Mrs. Lovett’s Pie Shop is home to one of, if not, the best meat pies you’ll ever have the privilege of eating.

A little bit before noon, if you’re anywhere on Fleet Street you’ll be able to take in an aroma that is indescribable. It’ll lift you off your feet and you’ll soon find yourself waiting what will feel like hours – thanks to the line outside – to just get in the shop. You’ll sit down and have your order taken by who I can only assume is her son, Tobi. Shortly after, you can see Mrs. Lovett carrying up a tray of pies from the bakery in the basement below. Such a hard working woman that one, doing all that work herself, day in day out. And once you get a pie in front of you you’ll wonder why she hasn’t been anointed a saint.

The flavours are undoubtedly one of a kind. Unlike anything either of us have ever tasted. I applaud her and the ingredients she uses because I don’t think I’ll ever find another meat pie as rich and full of flavour as hers.

The buttery crust that flakes off in your mouth; the vegetables that hold their structure; the herbs and the way they enhance that almost one of a kind meat with the gravy that accompanies it – oh, the gravy! Everything from the aroma to the taste of Mrs. Lovett’s pies just defy any notion of how great you thought meat pies should be.

I asked Tobi, if I can have a word with his mum for this article. He said she hardly has time for him but I insisted. I came by the next morning per her request and she sat down with me.

Like I said, she’s so busy I felt like I was going to be a burden. But she was at ease and seemed like she had all the time in the world to talk. After numerous attempts at trying to find out her secret she finally caved and simply said “it’s all about the meat.” And went on – “herbs and vegetables you can get from any ol’ place, but the meat is what makes the pies stand out.” Of course, I tried to get more details and find out her favorite cuts but all she said was she gets it [her meats] specially delivered by a butcher she’s known for ages. Continuing on the subject without spilling the bits I longed to hear, she goes on explaining how she makes the dough for the pie’s buttery crust while she grinds the meat herself downstairs in the basement. “You’ll have to give it a good grind – I go about 3 times – really makes things tender and works out any possibility of grizzle.”

As she was describing how she had come up from a poor childhood, in from the back door came a Mr. Sweeney Todd, the barber who owns the shop just above Mrs. Lovett’s establishment. He was carrying boxes towards the basement and I can only imagine it was the famed cuts of meat that make this place so unique. Looking like he’s not used to seeing anyone but her, he seemed a little startled when he noticed me. Mrs. Lovett confirmed my suspicion and told him to just place the cuts from the butcher down by the stairs. A brief introduction didn’t seem to relax because he still had a worrisome look about him, but it cleared up soon enough and he asked me if I’d like a complimentary shave. Describing how they’re business partners, him and Mrs. Lovett, I figured why not. While heading upstairs my wife and niece knocked on the door, having finished their tea. They accompanied me to Mr. Todd’s barbershop where he gave me the closest shave I’ve ever gotten. Even sang a song to my niece which she described as beautiful and hummed it for hours after.

As I was thanking Mrs. Lovett and Mr. Todd for their amazing generosity, I had to ask if she’d be willing to share a recipe for one of her pies. Turning to Mr. Todd as if seeking the approval of her business partner, he gave her a somewhat confused shrug, and it was enough for her to agree. She sat us down again and this time next to her sat Mr. Todd. My guess is he didn’t want her giving away all the secrets to their success!

She ran through everything in the ingredients list minus what I was waiting to hear.. – “So what types and cuts of meat do you use?” – I had to force out, trying to not sound pushy about what I was absolutely dying to know. And after a slight pause both Mrs. Lovett and Mr. Todd said simultaneously – “vealnison” – I heard, as they gave each other conflicting looks. Mrs. Lovett clarified “sometimes it’s veal, sometimes it’s venison, sometimes it’s a little bit of both. But if you can’t get a hold of either then beef and sausage with some bacon will do fine.” A slight smile and half a nod from Mr. Todd convinced me of his approval and I was happy with that.

I shook hands and went on my way, still taken aback by the sheer kindness they both showed me. I was so excited to publish this article I could hardly contain myself. I began writing it right away because I wanted everyone to try their best at replicating Fleet Street’s hardest working woman’s pie.

So without further ado, here is one of the many recipes straight from Mrs. Lovett’s pie shop!

Mrs. Lovett’s Priest Pie

Meat Filling

1 pound ~ Sausage, ground at least 3 times
1 pound ~ Stew Meat, cut bite sized
1 pound ~ Bacon, diced
1 1/2 cups ~ Onions, diced small
2 tablespoons ~ Garlic, chopped
1 1/2 cups ~ Mushrooms, sliced
1 cup ~ Carrots, diced small
2 cups ~ Potatoes, diced small
2 teaspoons ~ Rosemary
2 teaspoons ~ Thyme
2 teaspoons ~ Pepper
2 teaspoons ~ Chili Powder
1 teaspoon ~ Cumin
2 tablespoons ~ Worcestershire Sauce
2 ounces ~ Bacon Fat
2 ounces ~ Flour
4 cups ~ Beef Stock

Pie Dough

2 1/2 cups ~ All-Purpose Flour
1 cup ~ Butter, extremely cold, cubed
1 teaspoon ~ Salt
1 teaspoon ~ Sugar
6-8 tablespoons ~ Iced Water

Mrs. Lovett’s Notes:

1. I call it Priest Pie because of how heavenly it is.
2. If your meat isn’t cheap, might not have to do 3 grinds. Not saying my meat’s cheap, just saying.
3. Cut all your vegetables the same size, don’t want big carrots and small potatoes, do you, love?
4. The pie dough gives you enough for one 10 inch pie or 2 personal pies, maybe 3, depending on size.
5. Keep the butter for the dough in the freezer for a few hours before making it.
6. Chill and relax the dough for a few hours.